To get to the old, man-made Westelijke Eilanden (Western Islands) west of Central Station, take bus 35 form outside the station to Van Diemenstraat. You could also walk there, along waterfront De Ruijterkade and Westerdoksdijk – the road is not exactly a pleasure itself, but it does have a scenic view of the harbour.

South of Van Diemensstraat is a serene, cramped but character-rich neighbourhood of 17th-century warehouses, many of which have been converted to residential use, docks, small boatyards and other harbour installations.

The three islands – Realeneiland, Bickerseiland and Prinseneiland – are artificial, originally constructed in the 17th century to house shipyards. The yards profited from a shipbuilding boom caused by the United East India Company’s policy of granting trading licences to companies that used Dutch ships. They were also used for storing inflammable items at a safe remove from the city. Warehouses are today the most visible surviving legacy of this maritime zone. Many have been converted into chic apartments. Unimproved warehouses, now scarce, are favoured by artists because of their space and character.

To get a sense of this area without traipsing up and down every one of its streets, go down waterside Houtmankade, past a children’s playground in Zoutkeetsplein, to the end of the canal. Turn left into Schiemanstraat and its continuation, Sloterdijkstraat. Cross the narrow bridge over Prinseneilandsgracht into Galgenstraat, then cross the bridge over Bickersgracht. At the far end of Bickersgracht is a children’s farm where city kids get acquainted with nature. Finally, by way of Bickersstraat and Jonkerplein, head under the railway arch towards busy Haarlemmer Houttuinen.